Delayed in Berlin. Pouring rain in Istanbul and rushing to board the fully loaded Turkish Airlines to Kathmandu; I sat in row 37 of a 40 row and 8 across with many babies and returning Nepali. Foreign tourist were maximum 20 so not many flying to Nepal on this route.
I did not see the mountains or the valleys upon arrival, always a treat in the past but this time, deplaning in the warm sun with the Nepali scent in the air into an improved clean airport. But with 400 people arriving en mass and 10 immigration officers and no signs or organization it took 2 hours to depart the arrivals hall with my baggage intact. There were clean floors, new electronics, and better lighting. Slowly the arrival knot of humanity had untangled and people found a line to stand it and everyone was processed. I had applied for my visa on line and found the line to pay for it and then cut into a random line and waited my turn. I chatted with a French women who was coming to Nepal for two weeks to teach the making of French bread at an orphanage. She was 55 and had her own bakery outside of Paris. Her son had been to Nepal last year and told her about the opportunity, she was coming on her own for the experience. She said her class was to be 30 boys so was a little worried. I lost her in the crowd but wished her well.
The Airport is improved as is the organization outside but I missed my ride as Khem was waiting in the coffee shop and did not see me descend the escalator and I did not find him outside. Finally I retrieved Khem’s number from my phone and a kind man called Khem and we were united and Khem drove me to the hote
l
.
While I can say that traffic has improved it is still a mishmash of everyone out for themselves. There are no turn lanes so you maybe be going along and suddenly a driver cuts in front of you to make his turn. However the roads have been finished so they are wide and there are sweepers in the morning. Dust is still in the air from the roads unpaved but there is progress. There have been more buildings built along the way so hard for my eyes to pick out the skyline with the new buildings filling in old spaces. The golf course was still there and Pashpupanti on the river, so they were familiar landmarks. Two new overhead walkways have been built to allow people to cross over the road, saving lives..
Arrival at the hotel brought a sea buckthorn tonic which tasted so fantastic with local honey. It did revive me and I sat talking with Khem and 3 other former colleagues and students. Being a bit over tired I don’t remember all the conversation but it was warm and welcoming and I finally retired to my room and took a shower and feel asleep.
The view from my room on the 3rd floor is of a congested city and the fog and pollution hide the mountains as I am sure on a clear day you could see the mountains but not at this time: just haze over The Valley. The vegetable shop opened at 6:00 and people and motor bikes began the morning waking sounds. I looked out the window and saw many people walking to somewhere. Life starts early in Kathmandu.
Vegetable Shop looking down at 6:00 from my Hotel Room window
Looking for hotel window out over the East side of The Valley with the Monestary in the far distance.
The haze, fog, pollution looking towards the mountains which you can only see the hills of Shivapuri National Park. But the great white majestic himals stand behind covered by the fluids produced by a teaming city.
Loved this post. Can't wait to read more about your adventures!
Glad to know you arrived safely! Beautiful writing.